When was the last day you had a bad surf day?
”The last time I had a “bad Surf day” was probably three weeks ago, in Morocco. I was surfing at Anchor’s point! The waves were actually very nice and big! I was having lots of fun! There was this one very long wave I was surfing, which I decided to kick out almost at the end. As I jumped behind the wave, I felt that my board wasn’t pulling my leg anymore! The leash had broken and the board was drifting towards the rocks. I swam for it, even took a wave bodysurfing to reach my board in time, but one wave simply took the board and hit it against the rocks. A second wave spit my board onto the rocks where it was lying, now. I was trying to find a way out over the rocks and got drifted away quite a bit. I finally made it out of the water, with a few cuts on my foot. I ran up to my board and saw that it was damaged, but in the end I was lucky, I guess, it could have been worse. Annoying was the fact that I couldn’t gosurf those perfect waves anymore,
we had been waiting for almost
two weeks! My friends
were out there
laughing
at me!”
Can you still challenge yourself in the water?
”Surfing might appear as always the same thing: paddle out, catch a wave, and paddle out again! But when you are out in the sea and surf, you notice that every day the conditions are different, so the waves are different, and every single wave is different from the other wave. This breaks the routine and is kind like a challenge for me, knowing that I will experience different waves and try different tricks. The greatest challenge for a surfer (every surfer), is to search for a place where the waves are breaking perfectly, and every surfer has his own definition for “perfect”: some like big waves, some like hollow waves, some others like small and mellow waves! So according to your taste, you have the chance to go hunt this perfect wave that is in your head and everything involved in this search, the trip, the nature around you, the friends, the waiting and patience, etc. are important ingredients that take you to this last reward: a beach with perfect waves just for you and your buddies! That is my challenge, to be in fantastic places and surf my perfect wave. It only happens once in a while though, so that we don’t loose the enthusiasm!”
